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Tie & Dye Tribal Olive Cotton Silk Saree

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Tie & Dye Tribal Olive Cotton Silk Saree

AVAILABILITY : Out of stock

SKU : S0NO1AJLSR01

Tie & Dye Tribal Olive Cotton Silk Saree

The Story

Tie and dye is a modern term invented in 1960’s for a set of ancient resist dyeing techniques, and typically involves patterning fabric by tying parts of it in different ways to prevent penetration of dyes. The ‘resist’ is the tying and twisting of the fabric before the dyeing process. The contemporary tie and dye styles involve the use of bold patterns and bright colors, and is especially associated with psychedelic designs, which is actually the whole wave that popularized the designs in the 60’s and the 70’s.

But the origins of this craft can be dated back to almost 6th century AD, in the east, particularly China, India and Indonesia. This craft was also in existence in the 5th century in South America and Africa. Presently, it is believed that tie and dye was brought to Kutch, India from Sindh by Muslim Khatris who are still the largest community involved with the craft. Commercially, fabrics which are primarily used are muslin, handloom, silk and voile, although in current times, the cheap and easy availability of dyes and tie and dye kits make it possible for people to customize anything with this technique.

Generally, bright colors are dominant like yellow, red, green, maroon etc, and for a long time, vegetable dyes were used but which are these days increasingly getting replaced by chemical dyes. Some of the basic dyes, which are used across mostly all sub categories of tie and dye are – vat dyes, direct dyes, napthol dyes and procion dyes.

The Process

Tie-dyeing is essentially a process of folding or otherwise tying up fabric into a pattern, then blocking dye from coming into contact with the fabric. The "resist" is usually the string, thread or rubber bands. Once the material is dyed and/or over-dyed, the binding materials are removed, and the fabric is rinsed and dried. In India, 'bandhna' a local term is used, giving rise to the bandhani or leheriya which have now been a centre for tie & dye resist craft forms. Despite the fact that tie and dye is such a varied craft, the raw materials used for it are essentially the same. 

There are multiple ways by which different patterns of tie and dye can be obtained, hence, tie and dye is classified into three broad categories:

i)                    Either the warp or the weft is tied and dyed- single Ikat, Mashru

ii)                   Both the warp and the weft are tied and dyed- Double Ikat, patola

iii)                 The fabric is tied and dyed- Bandhani, lehariya, Shibori

In tie and dye, the technique and the process is of overwhelming importance and the process, although relatively simple is very time consuming, and goes according to the following steps. Fabric like cotton or georgette is taken and the area of the fabric to be dyed is is outlined using fugitive colours (colours which have a short life), and a clear, thin sheet of plastic with holes is kept over this area of fabric and an imprint of the desired area is transferred on to the fabric. The craftsperson then pulls on a small area of the fabric where each is placed & winds thread tightly around the protruding cloth to form a knot or bhindi. The thread generally used is nylon thread. Once the knots are tied, the fabric is washed to remove the imprint, and the cloth is then dipped in napthol for five minutes and dyed in yellow or another light colour for two minutes. Next, it is rinsed, squeezed, tied, dried and then dipped again in a darker colour. Without opening the knots, it is kept for three to four hours to allow the colour to soak in. (During the process, the small area beneath the thread resists the dye, leaving an undyed knot which is the bandhini dot.) After the last dyeing process is completed, the fabric is washed and if necessary starched. Once the fabric is dried, its folds are pulled apart in a particular way releasing the knots and revealing the pattern, which is usually deep coloured cloth with dots of various colours forming a pattern.

About Me: The distinctive hand-woven textiles of Odisha in unusual patterns and vibrant colours have supported a thriving cottage industry employing thousands. Odisha is famous for its silk ikat weaves created by an intricate process called the "bandha" in which warp and weft threads are tie-dyed to produce the pattern on the loom while weaving. Typical design motifs include rows of birds and animals, fish, seashells, rudraksh beads and temple spires.

Sambalpur, Berhampur, Mayurbhanj and Nuapatna produce a striking range in tussar silk with a brilliance, glaze and texture that is unmatched. The rare silk fabric produced at Nuapatna in Cuttack district embellished with verses from the Gitagovinda is used to dress the idols at the Jagannath Temple. The masters are well versed with the centuries old art of silk worm cultivation and create silk ties, stoles, furnishings and dress materials apart from sarees.

The Berhampuri Pata are heavy silk sarees with narrow borders, generally woven without any intricate motifs.
The Saktapar saree, from the weaving looms of Nuapatna are identifiable by the double ikat checkerboard pattern (passapalli) and brocade border. The weaving arts of Sambalpur-Sonepur and Nuapatna have greatly influenced each other.

The other typical varieties of sarees, in silk and cotton, include the glossy Khandwas having elaborate designs, the rich red jotai ikat with rows of stylized trees and temple spires on the borders. The tribal people of the state also excel in producing textiles of myriad hues using vegetable dyes. Most of the handloom textiles of Odisha are woven in bright and strong colors.

Measurements: Length - 5.5 meters, Blouse Material - 1 meters

Care: Dry clean only

Color: Beige

Material: Silk: 100% Natural

Weight: 435 Grams

Craft Process: Tie Resist Dyeing, Weaving: Hand-Woven

Theme: Hand Loom, Hand Made, Hand Woven

Product Note: This is a handcrafted product from artisans and producer groups and due to the nature of the product, slight variation in colors or design may occur. Any slight irregularities are distinctive and are inherent to the beauty of this creation as it is meticulously crafted by hand.

Shipping & Delivery: You can expect the delivery of this product within 4 - 5 working days from the date of your order.

Product Note: This is a handcrafted product from artisans and producer groups and due to the nature of the product, slight variation in colors or design may occur. Any slight irregularities are distinctive and are inherent to the beauty of this creation as it is meticulously crafted by hand.

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